
1980/81 GS450S and L - a
review
BIKES:1981 GS 450 L (cruiser) and 1980 GS 450 S (sport)
SPECIFICATIONS: Engine: two-cylinder, air-cooled, four-stroke, two
valves per cylinder, shim-over-bucket adjusters. Chain drive.
Suspension: Twin-shock rear w/5 preload adjustments, no front
suspension adjustments, wheels front/rear 18"/18"(S) and 19"/16"(L), front
single-disk single-piston disk brake, rear drum brake.Weight: About 380 lbs *
Gas mileage: 55-70 mpg

(** most of this review is of the L model. Comments on the S
model are included where there are significant differences)
- Description:
The S and L models, as well as the E
(standard) and T (tour) models, all shared the same basic engine and frame
layout. Major differences were cosmetic and ergonomic. The S model was Italian
red but styled suspiciously like the then-popular BMW R90S, with rounded 1/4
cafe fairing, squarish gas tank, low handlebars, and boat-tail rear bodywork.
The black L model was popped from the Japanese cruiser mold, with teardrop
tank, apehanger handlebars, stepped bucket seat, and a touch more chrome.
Students of oddities will be happy to know about the GS450GA, a shaft-drive,
automatic-transmission version of the L model; it was only produced for a few
years.
- Pricing:
L: (new $1849) (used $400-$1000, depending
on condition)
S: (new ?) (used $400-$1000, depending on condition)
The
popular L model is commonly available; the short-lived S model is rare.
- History:
I have owned an L model and ridden two S
models extensively. I bought the L used at 14k miles and rode it to 30k miles
in all conditions. Most of the miles were commutes in all weather, from 10-100
deg F; rain was common and snow occasional. I toured the northeast US and
eastern Canada on this bike (~2k miles), and made numerous day- and weekend
trips in Maryland and Virginia. The bike had been clumsily tinkered with by
its first owner, and possibly abused. I made some modifications to make the
bike nicer on the open road.
- Maintenance:
The now-discontinued Continental
TK22/44 tires I installed were perfect for the bike, and still have tread
after 16k miles. The engine and carburetors are stone reliable if left stock,
and the modified versions I've seen have been temperamental, to say the least.
Regular oil changes (Castrol 10W40 is okay, but Golden Spectro 10W40 really
quiets things down and smoothes the transmission) help keep the engine quiet
and help the rider find neutral more easily. I got about 8k miles from a DID
chain and PJ1 Black Label chain lube. It still has the original rear brake
pads, and I replaced the stock fronts with EBC pads at 16k miles; the EBC pads
require high effort and are dangerously slippery in the wet, but they are only
1/2 worn after 14k miles. The clutch pushrod, shift shaft, and countershaft
oil seals only last about 15k miles, and cost about $50 plus labor to replace.
The front brake light switch is susceptible to corrosion and arcing and lasts
about 20k miles. Fork seals lasted 15k miles but might have lasted longer with
better protection from the elements. (Everything applies to the S model, too,
except for tires. The Metzeler ME77/77F tires work very well on the S model.)
- Modifications:
Lower handlebars (Answer Superbike
bend, $20) allow more normal seating position. Russell
braided-stainless/teflon brake line ($30) made no noticeable difference. J.C.
Whitney generic black cafe fairing ($40) gives good protection from wind and
rain, and looks sporty. Shoei wing sport fairing gives okay protection, looks
ugly on this bike, and is expensive ($120). Dual Fiamm horns ($30) are a
necessity. Eclipse Standard Saddlepacks ($100) make excellent luggage. NEP
throttle lock ($10) is a wrist-saver. I lowered the triple clamps on the fork
tubes to improve handling and suspension response. (One S model had a Telefix
fork brace ($60) which greatly improved chassis rigidity. ProMan rear shocks
($100) made the ride more compliant. A MAC 2-into-1 exhaust system ($150) was
a good replacement for a damaged stock unit.)
- Opinion:
I like these bikes - they're light,
reliable, and versatile. The suspensions are pretty basic, though, and
aftermarket rear shocks make a big difference, as does a fork brace.
Maintenence is easier than on many bikes because of the engine's simplicity. I
like the useable power below 5k rpm, and the alternator puts out enough juice
for an electric vest. The seating positions are not perfect, but swapping
handlebars and modifying seats is relatively easy. Vibration increases
linearly with speed, tolerable below 65 mph and vibrating the mirrors above
65. The large front wheel on the L makes for great stability, but requires
muscle to turn at super- legal speeds. The seat on the L is thinly-padded, and
the passenger perch is awful. I hate having to unbolt the seat just to access
the air filter and tank mounting bolt. Parking lot tipovers net some
inconsequential scratches on the tailpipe and footpegs.
- Cautions:
Most '80s-era Suzukis burn their
alternators out eventually - I haven't seen this to be a problem with
well-maintained GS450s. S models were often raced - stay away from ones with
modified carbs (a clue is if the pilot jet screws are visible; they should be
factory sealed). If you ever need to remove one of the engine sidecovers, use
an impact driver on the screws - it's too easy to strip their heads.
SUBMITTED BY: Alex Matthews
E-MAIL:
matthews@ajsh.colorado.edu
